Reserva Hola Vida

Sunday thru Tuesday I went with a friend to the Hola Vida Reserve. He was guiding four tourists from Italy and the States, and I tagged along (for free, of course...)

Sunday we arrived and began an all-afternoon hike to the Cascada Escondida (Hidden Waterfall). We had to swim through a canyon to arrive at the base of the waterfall! (I guess that´s why it is "hidden").

Monday we woke up and set off for the Cascada Hola Vida waterfall (see picture). I was here, and do you see Internet? Neither do I... so sorry for the lack of updates. We swam in the (cold!) pools at the base of the waterfall, and the six of us were all alone during these treks.

We then canoed down the Puyo River to where it flows into the Pastaza River, getting quite wet along the way, as dugout canoes aren´t nearly as stable as rafting rafts!

We stayed in cabañas built up on stilts, kind of like the Shuar village, Yawints´, except these were a lot nicer (i.e. they had walls) because they were for visitors. And we even had mattresses (granted they were an inch thick, but I´ve slept on platforms here.)

And snakesssss!!! They found a poisonous coral snake outside of our room. It was bright yellow, red, and black. The family that lived there killed the snake, which is understandable as they have small children that run around barefoot. And snakebites kills so many people! Then, my friend and his friends found a rainbow boa that was as long as me! Although he insists it´s nothing, as he tells stories of the 20 foot anaconda that almost ate him one time. Then later, a chonta snake in the trail. The poor Italian lady was quite distraught.

She was even more upset when my friend cut open a felled chonta trunk, picked out the grubs and began eating. He offered the wriggly fat things to us. I ate them. The Italians didn´t. You just have to bite it fast, then it´s like candy. Otherwise, it feels weird as it writhes in your mouth! We also ate lemon ants, and those are downright tasty!! Not to mention all the fruit we eat fresh from the tree, fruit I´ve never heard of before.

My friend started scraping a tree and adding water to the peelings and he said to me, "You´ve had good experiences with this, no?" And I knew. "Is that tsank??" It was. Well, I don´t have to pretend to be polite with a friend, so I downright refused! He then turned to the Italians, but I warned them, and they adamantly refused, too. Then he was upset that I had convinced the Italians not to try it... but they thanked me.

I am covered in weird bites and bumps... which is certain to get worse as I am heading back to the jungle in two days...

For those of you wondering... yes, I am in the process of extending my stay here in Ecuador. There are many reasons, which I will list briefly. If you want to know more, email me. If you don´t care, stop reading:

1. My invitation to study with a Shuar uwishin. This is a rare opportunity, not a tourist vacation. And I want to learn more. However, if I went back to Yawints´ for a few weeks, then it would be time to leave Ecuador, and I wouldn´t get to travel in the highlands at all.

2. The internet situation. The deciding factor on my return was applying to grad school, because I was not aware how available Internet and phones could be in some towns here. I have also contacted schools, and no school seems to care if I am in the States when I apply.

3. The money situation. I didn´t plan on working until at least February, and even with flight changes and a visa, it will cost me less to live and travel in Ecuador than to barely get by in San Francisco.

4. The Elizabeth-just-be-crazy-like-that reason. I feel like staying, so why not?

I have already talked to the migration office, and I will soon change my flight. Love you all, and I will probably see you in 2007!!